DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES DURING STORMY CONDITIONS

Yoshinao Matsuba; Dano Roelvink; Ad J.H.M. Reniers; Dirk P. Rijnsdorp; Takenori Shimozono

doi:10.9753/icce.v37.structures.41

Núm. 37 (2022), Coastal Structures

Núm. 37 (2022)

DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES DURING STORMY CONDITIONS

Coastal Structures

Publicado 2023-09-01

Yoshinao Matsuba
Dano Roelvink
Ad J.H.M. Reniers
Dirk P. Rijnsdorp
Takenori Shimozono

Yoshinao Matsuba

Dano Roelvink

Ad J.H.M. Reniers

Dirk P. Rijnsdorp

Takenori Shimozono

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DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES DURING STORMY CONDITIONS. (2023). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 37, structures.41. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v37.structures.41

Resumen

Both magnitude and directions of infragravity (IG) waves are essential information for accurate hindcast/prediction of coastal hazard due to stormy waves (e.g., coastal inundation and beach erosion). However, conventional reconstruction methods of directional spectra relying on linear wave theory are not applicable to IG waves which are composed of free (linear) and bound (nonlinear) components. This study proposes a novel method to reconstruct directional spectra of IG waves and presents diverse wave directions of free IG waves during stormy conditions.

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Referencias

Ardhuin, Rawat, Aucan (2014): A numerical model for free infragravity waves: Definition and validation at regional and global scales. Ocean Modelling, 77, 20–32.

Hasselmann (1962): On the non-linear energy transfer in a gravity-wave spectrum, J. Fluid Mech., 12(04), 481.

Roelvink, Reniers, van Dongeren, van Thiel de Vries, McCall, Lescinski (2009): Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering, 56(11–12), 1133–1152.

Matsuba, Roelvink, Reniers, Rijnsdorp, Shimozono (2022): Reconstruction of Directional Spectra of Infragravity Waves. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 127(7), 1–20.

Esta obra está bajo una licencia internacional Creative Commons Atribución 4.0.

Derechos de autor 2023 Yoshinao Matsuba, Dano Roelvink, Ad J.H.M. Reniers, Dirk P. Rijnsdorp, Takenori Shimozono

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DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA OF INFRAGRAVITY WAVES DURING STORMY CONDITIONS

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