COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

James T. Kirby; Philip L.F. Liu; Sung B. Yoon; Robert A. Dalrymple

doi:10.9753/icce.v19.68

Núm. 19 (1984), Conference Proceedings

Núm. 19 (1984)

COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

Conference Proceedings

Publicado 1984-01-29

James T. Kirby⁺⁻
Philip L.F. Liu⁺⁻
Sung B. Yoon⁺⁻
Robert A. Dalrymple⁺⁻

James T. Kirby

Marine Sciences Research Center, State Univ. of New York

Philip L.F. Liu

School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, Cornell University

Sung B. Yoon

School of Civil and Envir. Engrg., Cornell Univ., Ithaca

Robert A. Dalrymple

Dept. of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

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Palabras clave

shallow water
nonlinear waves
refraction
diffraction
combined refraction-diffraction

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COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER. (1984). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 68. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.68

Resumen

The parabolic approximation is developed to study the combined refraction/diffraction of weakly nonlinear shallow water waves. Two methods of approach are taken. In the first method Boussinesq equations are used to derive evolution equations for spectral wave components in a slowly varying two-dimensional domain. The second method modifies the equation of Kadomtsev s Petviashvili to include varying depth in two dimensions. Comparisons are made between present numerical results, experimental data and previous numerical calculations.

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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COMBINED REFRACTION-DIFFRACTION OF NONLINEAR WAVES IN SHALLOW WATER

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