IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION IN A BOUSSINESO WAVE MODEL

Resumen

Numerical wave models for shallow water waves are of particular importance for the calculation of the wave climate in harbours and coastal areas. Especially nonlinear time domain models, which are based on the Boussinesq-Wave- Equations, may be helpful in the future for simulating the interaction of currents with refraction, diffraction, reflection and for simulating shoaling..-of irregular waves in natural areas; a potential which has not yet been fully developed. During the last ten years numerical models, based on these equations, have been published; such as ABBOTT et. al. , HAUGUEL and SCHAPER / ZIELKE . Research on this topic is currently being carried on. Some efforts have been made to verify the capability of the models to describe the various physical phenomena. However, up to now, verification has been limited to regular waves. The aim of this paper therefore is, to consider questions concerning irregular, nonlinear waves.