RUN-UP OF IRREGULAR WAVES ON GENTLY SLOPING BEACH
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Palabras clave

sloping beach
gentle slope
irregular waves
run up

Cómo citar

RUN-UP OF IRREGULAR WAVES ON GENTLY SLOPING BEACH. (1994). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(24). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%p

Resumen

Irregular wave run-up on beaches has been studied on the basis of laboratory and field data, which confirmed that long-term wave run-up corresponding to surf beat (or infragravity waves) appears in case of a sea bottom slope gentler than about 1/20. Moreover analytical and numerical models to calculate surf beat caused by wave groups are investigated, and empirical and numerical models to predict the long period wave run-up are proposed.
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