COMPUTATION OF THE NEAR-BOTTOM KINEMATICS OF SHOALING WAVES
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Palabras clave

shoaling
near-bottom waves
wave computation

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COMPUTATION OF THE NEAR-BOTTOM KINEMATICS OF SHOALING WAVES. (1996). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(25). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v25.%p

Resumen

Two practical formulations from Isobe and Horikawa (1982) and Swart and Crowley (1988) are tested against laboratory measurements: seven cases with monochromatic waves and two cases with random waves. It appears that the Isobe and Horikawa formulation can be used with confidence over a large range of wave conditions except in the surf zone when monochromatic waves are considered. The covocoi'dal theory from Swart and Crowley provides a more comprehensive description of wave properties but abnormal results have been noticed in a few cases. The use of one representative wave height and period in random waves may lead to an underestimation of velocity moments with low steepness waves.
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