LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT

Leandro Suarez; Rodrigo Cienfuegos; Eric Barthélemy; Hervé Michallet; Cristian Escauriaza

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.35

Núm. 33 (2012), Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

Núm. 33 (2012)

LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT

Swash, Nearshore Currents, and Long Waves

Publicado 2012-10-25

Leandro Suarez⁺⁻
Rodrigo Cienfuegos⁺⁻
Eric Barthélemy⁺⁻
Hervé Michallet⁺⁻
Cristian Escauriaza⁺⁻

Leandro Suarez

Pontificia Universidad Católica

Rodrigo Cienfuegos

Pontificia Universidad Católica

Eric Barthélemy

Laboratoire des Ecoulements Géophysiques et Industriels

Hervé Michallet

Laboratoire des Ecoulements Géophysiques et Industriels

Cristian Escauriaza

Pontificia Universidad Católica

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Palabras clave

rip currents
non-linear shallow-water equations
lagrangian drifters

Cómo citar

LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT. (2012). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(33), currents.35. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.35

Resumen

A non-uniform alongshore wave forcing on an experimental uneven mobile bathymetry create mean circulation on a rip channel. A 2D numerical hydrodynamic model that integrates the non-linear shallow-water equations in a shock-capturing finite-volume framework is used to validate the nearshore circulation, and drifters displacement.

PDF (Inglés)

Referencias

Castelle, B. Michallet, H., Marieu, V., Leckler, Dubardier, Lambert, Berni, C., Bonneton, Barthélemy, and Bouchette (2010). Laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed: Drifter measurements. J. Geophys. Res., 115, C12008.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006343">http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006343

Cienfuegos, Barthélemy, Bonneton (2007). A fourth-order compact ï¬nite volume scheme for fully nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq-type equations. Part II: Boundary conditions and validation. Int. J. Numer. Methods in Fluids, 53, 1423-1455.http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.1359">http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.1359

Escauriaza, C. and Sotiropoulos, F. (2011), Lagrangian model of bed-load transport in turbulent junction ï¬‚ows, J. Fluid Mech, 666, 36-76.http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112010004192">http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112010004192

Guerra, M. Cienfuegos, R., Escauriaza, C., Rosa (2010), Modelación numérica 2D de crecidas extremas y zonas de inundación en coordenadas curvilíneas generalizadas XXIV Congreso latinoaméricano de hidraúlica, Punta del Este, Uruguay

Liang, Q. & Marche, F. (2009). Numerical resolution of well-balances shallow water equations with complex source terms. Adv. Water Resour., 32, 873-884.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.advwatres.2009.02.010">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.advwatres.2009.02.010

MacMahan, J. H., Thornton, E. B.,Reniers, J.H.M. (2006). Rip current review. Coastal Engineering, 53, 191-208.http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.009">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.10.009

Marche, Bonneton, Fabrie, Seguin, (2007). Evaluation of well-balance bore-capturing schemes for 2D wetting and drying processes. Int. J. Numer. Methods in Fluids, 53, 867-894.http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.1311">http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/fld.1311

Martínez, C., Salinas S. (2006). Morfodinámica y evolución reciente de playa Tunquén, Chile central. Revista Biología y Oceanografía Marina, 44 (1), 203-215.

Michallet, Castelle, Bouchette, Lambert, Berni, Barthélemy, Bonneton, Sous (2010). Modélisation de la morphodynamique d'une plage barrée tridimensionnelle. Proc. Journée Natl. Génie Côtier - Génie Civ., 11, 379-386.

Mignot, E. & Cienfuegos, R. (2009). On the application of a Boussinesq model to river ï¬‚ows including shocks.

Reniers, A.J.H.M., MacMahan, J.H., Beron-Vera, F.J.,Olascoaga, M.J. (2010). Rip-current pulses tied to Lagrangian coherent structures. Geophysical Research Letters, 37, L05605.http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2009GL041443">http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2009GL041443

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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LAGRANGIAN DRIFTER MODELLING OF AN EXPERIMENTAL RIP CURRENT

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