Abstract
The paper presents a mathematical model for describing wave climate and wave-induced nearshore circulations. The model accounts for current-depth refraction, diffraction, wave-induced currents, set-up and set-down, mixing processes and bottom friction effects on both waves and currents. The present model was tested against published experimental data on wave conditions within a model harbour and shown to give very good results for both wave and current fields. The importance of including processes such as advection, flooding and current-interaction in coastal models was demonstrated by comparing the numerical results without each process to the results from the complete scheme.
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