COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

Thomas A. Hardy; Nicholas C. Kraus

doi:10.9753/icce.v21.42

No. 21 (1988), Conference Proceedings

No. 21 (1988)

COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

Conference Proceedings

Published 1988-01-29

Thomas A. Hardy⁺⁻
Nicholas C. Kraus⁺⁻

Thomas A. Hardy

Department of Civil and Systems Engineering, James Cook University

Nicholas C. Kraus

Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Station, P.O. Box 631, Vicksburg

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Keywords

theory coupling
Stokes theory
cnoidal theory
nonlinear refraction
refraction model

How to Cite

COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL. (1988). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(21), 42. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v21.42

Abstract

An efficient numerical model is presented for calculating the refraction and shoaling of finite-amplitude waves over an irregular sea bottom. The model uses third-order Stokes wave theory in relatively deep water and second-order cnoidal wave theory in relatively shallow water. It can also be run using combinations of lower-order wave theories, including a pure linear wave mode. The problem of the connection of Stokes and cnoidal theories is investigated, and it is found that the use of second-order rather than first-order cnoidal theory greatly reduces the connection discontinuity. Calculations are compared with physical model measurements of the height and direction of waves passing over an elliptical shoal. The finite-amplitude wave model gives better qualitative and quantitative agreement with the measurements than the linear model.

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COUPLING STOKES AND CNOIDAL WAVE THEORIES IN A NONLINEAR REFRACTION MODEL

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