How to Cite

NEW SUSPENDED SAND CONCENTRATION MODEL FOR BREAKING WAVES. (2020). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 36v, sediment.32.


Process-based morphodynamic modelling suites (as well as other process-based models) are often considered to be inefficient and unsuitable for simulating medium- to long-term morphodynamics due to the various theoretical (e.g. robustness of sediment transport models) and practical (e.g. computational costs) limitations. In particular, a lack of knowledge of sediment transport processes and how they relate to hydrodynamics makes the application of short-term models to long-term coastal evolution challenging. Even the state-of-the-art coastal area modelling suites (such as Delft3D and MIKE21) consist of relatively simple physics, relying instead on numerous semi-empirical parameterizations, which are often poorly supported by measured data and/or physical process understanding. In particular, suspended sediment transport in the highly turbulent surf zone is poorly modelled under breaking wave conditions. Six existing suspended sand concentration (SSC) models were critically evaluated against four high-resolution datasets with field-scale breaking waves and co-located velocity and concentration measurements over multiple cross-shore zones (shoaling, breaking and inner-surf zones). A new improved concentration model was proposed based on a novel empirical relationship observed between local water depth and reference concentration, as well as latest process understanding and insights.

Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link):


Lim, Jayaratne and Shibayama (2020): Suspended sand concentration models under breaking waves: evaluation of new and existing formulations. Marine Geology, ELSEVIER vol. 426.

Mocke and Smith, (1992). Wave breaker turbulence as a mechanism for sediment suspension. Proceedings of 23rd ICCE, ASCE.

Van Rijn, (2007): Unified view of sediment transport by currents and waves. II: Suspended transport, Journal of Hydraulic Engineering, ASCE, vol. 133(6), pp. 668-689.

Van der Zanden, Van der A, Hurther, Caceres, O’Donoghue, and Ribberink, (2017). Suspended sediment transport around a large-scale laboratory breaker bar. Coastal Engineering, ELSEVIER, vol. 125, pp.51–69.

Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.