Abstract
Ocean wave parameters are influenced by shallowing water depth and varying bottom topography. Modelling and in-situ studies have found that as waves propagate over a reef, interaction in the form of friction with the shallower reef can alter wave height, wave period, wavelength, and wave direction. Submerged structures such as coral and rock-based reefs provide an uncertain amount of shoreline protection. Quantifying wave transformation over submerged structures will inform and aid in the design of future coastal protections.References
Harris, Vila-Concejo (2013) Wave transformation on a coral reef rubble platform, Journal of coastal research, Special issue 94, 506-510
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Symonds, Black and Young (1995): Wave driven flow over shallow reefs, Journal of Geo-physical research: Oceans 100 (C2), 2639-2648.
Young (1989): Wave transformation over coral reefs, Journal of Geo-physical research: Oceans 94 (C7), i9779-9789.
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