MODELING TURBULENT BORE PROPAGATION IN THE SURF ZONE

David R. Basco; Ib A. Svendsen

doi:10.9753/icce.v19.7

No. 19 (1984), Conference Proceedings

No. 19 (1984)

MODELING TURBULENT BORE PROPAGATION IN THE SURF ZONE

Conference Proceedings

Published 1984-01-29

David R. Basco⁺⁻
Ib A. Svendsen⁺⁻

David R. Basco

Civil and Ocean Engineering, Texas ASM University

Ib A. Svendsen

Institute of Hydrodynamics and Hydraulic Engineering (ISVA), Technical University of Denmark

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Keywords

bore
bore modeling
surf zone
bore propagation

How to Cite

MODELING TURBULENT BORE PROPAGATION IN THE SURF ZONE. (1984). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(19), 7. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v19.7

Abstract

Initial efforts to numerically simulate surf zone waves by using a modified form of the nonlinear shallow water equations are described. Turbulence generated at the front of the moving bore-like wave spreads vertically downward to significantly alter the velocity profile and hence the horizontal momentum flux. This influence of turbulence is incorporated into the momentum balance equation through a momentum correction coefficient, a which is prescribed based in part upon the theoretical a(x) distribution beneath stationary hydraulic jumps. The numerical results show that with a suitably chosen a(x) distribution, the equations not only dissipate energy as the waves propagate, but also that the wave shape stabilizes as a realistic profile rather than progressively steepening as when the nonlinear shallow water equations are employed. Further research is needed to theoretically determine the appropriate a(x,t) distribution.

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MODELING TURBULENT BORE PROPAGATION IN THE SURF ZONE

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