TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES
PDF

Keywords

surf zones
simple model
wave breaking

How to Cite

Basco, D. R., & Yamashita, T. (1986). TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(20), 72. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.72

Abstract

Breaking waves undergo a transition from oscillatory, irrotational motion, to highly rotational (turbulent) motion with some particle translation. On plane or monotonically decreasing beach profiles, this physically takes place in such a way that the mean water level remains essentially constant within the transition region. Further shoreward a rapid set-up takes place within the inner, bore-like region. The new surf zone model of Svendsen (1984) begins at this transition point and the new wave there contains a trapped volume of water within the surface roller moving with the wave speed. This paper describes a simple model over the transition zone designed to match the Svendsen (1984) model at the end of the transition region. It uses a simple, linear growth model for the surface roller area development and semi-empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. Breaking wave type can vary from spilling through plunging as given by a surf similarity parameter. The model calculates the wave height decrease and width of the transition region for all breaker types on plane or monotonically depth decreasing beaches.
https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.72
PDF
Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.