TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES

David R. Basco; Takao Yamashita

doi:10.9753/icce.v20.72

No. 20 (1986), Conference Proceedings

No. 20 (1986)

TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES

Conference Proceedings

Published 1986-01-29

David R. Basco⁺⁻
Takao Yamashita⁺⁻

David R. Basco

Coastal Engineering Institute, Old Dominion Univ.

Takao Yamashita

Diaster Prevention Research Institute, Kyoto Univers

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Keywords

surf zones
simple model
wave breaking

How to Cite

TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES. (1986). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(20), 72. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v20.72

Abstract

Breaking waves undergo a transition from oscillatory, irrotational motion, to highly rotational (turbulent) motion with some particle translation. On plane or monotonically decreasing beach profiles, this physically takes place in such a way that the mean water level remains essentially constant within the transition region. Further shoreward a rapid set-up takes place within the inner, bore-like region. The new surf zone model of Svendsen (1984) begins at this transition point and the new wave there contains a trapped volume of water within the surface roller moving with the wave speed. This paper describes a simple model over the transition zone designed to match the Svendsen (1984) model at the end of the transition region. It uses a simple, linear growth model for the surface roller area development and semi-empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. Breaking wave type can vary from spilling through plunging as given by a surf similarity parameter. The model calculates the wave height decrease and width of the transition region for all breaker types on plane or monotonically depth decreasing beaches.

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TOWARD A SIMPLE MODEL OF THE WAVE BREAKING TRANSITION REGION IN SURF ZONES

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