RELIABILITY OF PRESSURE SENSORS TO MEASURE WAVE HEIGHT IN THE SHOALING REGION
AbstractA comparison between a range of transfer functions to recover wave height from pressure sensors data is presented. The analysis is carried out by means of a large-scale wave flume experimental dataset, in which resistive, acoustic and pressure gauges recovered wave height are compared as the waves travel from intermediate waters, to the shoaling region and finally into the surf zone. All the considered transfer functions result adequate in recovering wave height in intermediate waters, becoming gradually less accurate as the steepness of the wave increases in the shoaling region and in the surf zone. The accuracy of the compared transfer functions is assessed by means of an ensemble wave height based deviation.
T. Aagaard, K. P. Black, and B. Greenwood. Cross-shore suspended sediment transport in the surf zone: a field-based parameterization. Marine Geology, 185(3):283-302, 2002.
F. Biesel. Second order theory of manometer wave measurement. In Coastal Engineering 1982, pages 129-135. 1982.
C. T. Bishop and M. A. Donelan. Measuring waves with pressure transducers. Coastal Engineering, 11(4): 309-328, 1987.
L. Cavaleri, J. Ewing, and N. Smith. Measurement of the pressure and velocity field below surface waves. In Turbulent fluxes through the sea surface, wave dynamics, and prediction, pages 257-272. Springer, 1978.
J. Chen. Three dimensional nonlinear pressure transfer function. Private Communication, 2000. M. Hom-ma, K. Horikawa, and S. Komori. Response characteristics of underwater wave gauge. In Coastal Engineering 1966, pages 99-114. 1967.
K. Inch. Surf zone hydrodynamics: Measuring waves and currents. Geomorphological Techniques, 2014. Y.-Y. Kuo and Y.-F. Chiu. Transfer function between wave height and wave pressure for progressive waves. Coastal Engineering, 23(1-2):81-93, 1994.
U. Neumeier. Processing of wave data from pressure sensors. http://neumeier.perso.ch/matlab/ waves.html, 2006.
U. Neumeier and C. L. Amos. The influence of vegetation on turbulence and flow velocities in european salt-marshes. Sedimentology, 53(2):259-277, 2006.
K. L. Oliveras, V. Vasan, B. Deconinck, and D. Henderson. Recovering the water-wave profile from pressure measurements. SIAM Journal on Applied Mathematics, 72(3):897-918, 2012.
C. H. Tsai, M. C. Huang, F. J. Young, Y. C. Lin, and H. W. Li. On the recovery of surface wave by pressure transfer function. Ocean Engineering, 32(10):1247-1259, jul 2005. ISSN 00298018. doi: 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2004.10.020.
M. Tucker and E. Pitt. Waves in ocean engineering. 2001.
L. Van Rijn, B. Grasmeijer, and B. Ruessink. Measurement errors of instruments for velocity, wave height, sand concentration and bed levels in field conditions. . . . /Delft Hydraulics Report, 0(November), 2000.