OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

Satoshi Nakamura; Nicholas Dodd

doi:10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Núm. 26 (1998), Conference Proceedings

Núm. 26 (1998)

OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

Conference Proceedings

Publicado 1998-01-29

Satoshi Nakamura⁺⁻
Nicholas Dodd⁺⁻

Satoshi Nakamura

Marine Environment Division, Port and Harbour Research Institute

Nicholas Dodd

HR wallingford

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natural beach
low frequency waves
wave observation
wave simulation

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OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES. (1998). Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(26). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v26.%p

Resumen

Field observations of low-frequency wave on natural beaches are carried out. The ratio of the wave height of low-frequency wave near the shoreline to the wind wave height at the offshore has positive correlation with the surf similarity parameter. Using the field data, a validation of a numerical model was made. The model includes basic mechanisms of low-frequency wave generation that low-frequency wave increases with shoaling of wind waves groups, they are released from wave groups due to wave breaking and wind wave period becomes longer due to run-up to the beach. The model results tend to be excessively computed against field data.

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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OBSERVATION AND SIMULATION OF LOW-FREQUENCY WAVES ON TWO NATURAL BEACHES

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