Resumen
As the water waves come to the coastal area, the variation in dispersion relation due to the spatial inhomogeneity brings about the deformation of the wave shape. With the local bathymetry effect, the propagation of the wave experiences a complicated evolution process, including the reflection, wave shoaling and breaking, etc. Considering the directional spreading effect and wave refraction becomes indispensable when it comes to a two-dimensional (2D) problem in the random wavefield. Mori et al. (2011) indicated that the distribution of maximum wave height in deep-water is decided by the directional dispersion. In this research, we aim to discuss the occurrence of maximum wave height in the 2D wave evolution in the coastal area. It helps to estimate better extreme events in the prevention work of coastal hazards. To simulate the 2D propagation, we develop a nonlinear model as an extension work of Lyu et al. (2021), which considers the high order harmonic interactions of irregular waves before the breaking in surf zone.Referencias
Mori N., Onorato M., Janssen P.A.E.M. (2011): On the estimation of the kurtosis in directional sea states for freak wave forecasting. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 41 (8), 1484-1497.
Lyu Z., Mori N., Kashima H. (2021): Freak wave in high-order weakly nonlinear wave evolution with bottom topography change, Coastal Eng., 167: 103918.
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Derechos de autor 2023 Zuorui Lyu, Nobuhito Mori, Hiroaki Kashima, Yoshimitsu Tajima